Learning a new technique can sometimes be a bit stressful. You're not quite sure if you're doing it right. You have to let go just a little to allow the magic to happen.
I love the idea of doing socks toe-up, but have always loved the gusset flap on toe-down. I've never seen a good enough tutorial that explains it. There are not many patterns out in the knitting world that explain it. Until Ravelry. Can't praise it enough.
First off I found two references for doing toe-up socks with a gusset heel. Wendy Knits and Knot Another Hat. Both have the PDF downloads on their sidebars. The generic toe-up, slip stitch heel formula from Knot Another Hat is a perfect starting point as you plug in your stitch numbers to get your pattern.
I don't mind the math, but some of you do.
So here the formula for a 64 stitch sock, knit on two circ's, toe-up. This is also assuming that you have Cast-on and knit the toe and foot. The basic premise of knitting with two circ's is to split in half the total number of stitches...32 st on each needle. The pattern says to have the foot measure 3 inches short of full length...because I'm all about the visual...Here is where I stoped:
The toe to food measurement is 7 1/2 inch...I'm shooting for a 9 3/4 length.
Lets Increase for the Gusset::
Designate one needle as "heel" needle and one needle as "instep" needle. Instep needle will be left alone and never has any change in st count. Below also states a an INC (increase)...choose what ever suites your liking. I prefer the knit through front and back loop.
On heel needle, k1, inc, k to last st, inc, k1. K across instep.
K 1 round plain.
Repeat these last 2 rows until you have 52 st on your heel needle.
Lets Turn the Heel:: Back and forth on the heel needle only.
Row 1) k35, inc 1, k1, w&t (wrap and turn)
Row 2) p18, inc 1p, p1, w&t
Row 3) k16, inc 1, k1, w&t
Row 4) p14, inc 1p, p1, w&t
Row 5) k12, inc 1, k1, w&t
Row 6) p10, inc 1p, p1, w&t
Row 7) k8, inc 1, k1, w&t
Row 8) p6, inc 1p, p1, w&t
You have now turned the heel. Knit most of one round by knitting across the rest of the heel and across the instep; pick up the wraps and knit them together with their sts as you come to them.
Lets do the Heel Flap:: Back and forth on heel needle only again
Row 1) K45, ssk, turn (continue picking up remaining wraps and k them tog with their sts)
Row 2) sl 1, p30, p2tog, turn
Row 3) sl 1, *(k1, sl 1) rpt from * to 1 st before gap created by last turn, ssk, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until all heel sts but 1 have been decreased away. On last row, don't turn, and instead continue in the round by knitting across the instep, and then k2tog at the beginning of the heel needle to eliminate this last st.
That's it for the tricky stuff...just keep knitting away for your cuff.
I can't say that this method is easier then a short-row heel, as it's all about end effect. But I do love the reinforcement of the slip stitch pattern on the heel. I will definitely be using this method again in future sock projects.