FO: October Frost

To say that I'm excited to have this sweater done...is an understatement. The pieces to this sweater stayed locked away blocked and folded while I was busy designing my own stuff. I waited patiently for the right buttons and in the end, grosgrain ribbon. I knew I wanted this to be done just right.

Pattern: October Frost by Lisa Lloyd

Yarn: Chuckanut Bay Yarns

Needles: US 6 and 8 needle

Started: January 21, 2012

Finished: October 16, 2014

Did I change anything? Nope. At the time, I was happy to just do what was instructed.



The yarn was originally for a tunic cabled jacket and hood...Faery Ring, but the designer never did finish the sizing options for the larger sizes. It was also at this point that I knew that the shape of the jacket would not be flattering to my body shape. The stars were then aligned for me to make one of the many beautiful sweaters from the book: A Fine Fleece.



I also knew I had to find the perfect buttons and just to really finish this sweater off, I wanted ribbon. So, If your ever in Chicago and need buttons and ribbon... head to Soutache. The lady there is adorable and was very knowledgeable with her stock and selection.



Back when I had time to listen to Podcasts, I remember the Knitmore Girls talking about a video they had created that demonstrated the technique of adding ribbon to the button band. It's long. But very helpful in understanding the process. Go check it out here.

What the video doesn't show you is the technique used for adding ribbon over the button holes. This part was a little more tricky. Knowing what I know now, I would have made button holes to the ribbon from my sewing machine prior to attaching the ribbon to the sweater. What did happen was I had attached the ribbon over the holes. Sniped slits where the holes where and then the ribbon began to fray. Oh-Joy. So yeah... I then looked up techniques on securing button holes. I found this video helpful. You'll also need to add Fray Check to the ribbon before doing this buttonhole stitch. If you don't it will just cause your ribbon to fray more. I also added more Fray Check afterwards to double secure it.

Yes, it took a full day to add the ribbon...and another full day to stitch all 7 button holes, but in the end it was worth it.

The whole process has me feeling very empowered. So here I give you my Powerful Pose:

Woobie Video: Connecting Provisional Cast-on Hem

I know the one thing that a lot of knitters have when making the Woobie is hem. Yeah, it's a lot of stitches in the beginning...and Yeah, the hem takes up practically a whole skein of yarn, but the idea is that it gives the blanket weight.

 The other big issue with the hem is unraveling the provisional cast-on. Your connecting the 300 live stitches with the 300 cast-on stitches. I decided that perhaps a video might help. The video is a little long, but you get two techniques on how to handle this portion of the pattern. You get the safe technique which involves placing the provisional cast-on onto a separate needle and then you get the "Living on the Wild Side" version.

Woobie Video: Sealing base of the head

Since I'm in the process of putting together a third Collection Series of Woobies, it gave me a chance to record some key videos to help those who are having issues with the different techniques used in the pattern.

Here is a video that shows how to seal the base of the head on your Woobie. It's not a difficult technique, just a little hard to describe in words. I know I'm a visual learner, so this would have helped me out a lot.

Survey - Hand Measurements

I’m currently working on some intricate designs and would love to gather some data from my awesome testers by having you take a quick survey. I’m hoping you’ll grant me a little bit of your time by taking hand measurements.

I’m finding there is a lack of standards of measurement used for hands. Really hoping that gathering these numbers will generate a more accurate standard within my own patterns. In my own personal findings, I purchase XL woman gloves and sometimes go up to a Medium men. Yet the charts on websites have me listed as a Small, which I know not to be true.

Please record your measurements in cm. This can help with a more accurate reading. Keep the measuring tape slack, not loose or tight.

Below is a diagram with the locations of the measurements:



Circumference
A: Palm (widest part of the palm, across knuckles at a slight angle)
B: Thumb (wrap knuckle and cross tape so the 0 marker lines up with the edge of the tape below)
C: Wrist (below palm where the hand bends)

Length
D: Thumb to Wrist (hold tape with pointer finger and thumb, measure to wrist where hand bends)
E: Thumb to Knuckle (tip of thumb to knuckle)
F: Finger Tip to Wrist (middle finger to wrist where hand bends)
G: Palm to Wrist (top of palm where fingers begin to wrist where hand bends)

Additional Information:
1: Age (Adult or Child)
2: Sex of persons measurements

You can reply to this post or visit the Knifty Red Designs survey thread on Ravelry... Thanks so much for your time.

Fabric Pocket Lining for a Knit Sweater

Do you see this awesome vest. It was really hard to let go, but I know my Mom will get plenty of usage out of it. Its new home will be in her office and knowing that she'd be wearing this in that environment I felt that the knit pockets should be lined. Lets just say for a pen, a cell phone or even a few coins for the vending machine. If I kept it a knit fabric any one of those items could have damaged the pocket. What's the point of a pocket that doesn't work. I've got this thing about fake pockets. ugg.

I guess I must also mention that before putting in the lining I had not finished tacking down the inner knitted pocket flap. This allows you access to the inside and that's kind of critical.

So this leads to me taking a trip to Hancock Fabrics. My son did a great job of picking a coordinating fat quarter in the quilting section. Took it home and hot washed and dried the fabric first. Let me also just tell you that I own a sewing machine but I am by no means a sewer. If your looking for sewing info please visit your nearest fabric store. They are loads helpful and if you're honored to have friends who sew, then please talk with them. That's where I've gotten most of my information.



I took the fabric and folded it in half on its bias. This is to allow for some stretch once it's installed. Roughly measure the size of the pocket and cut the fabric with an added 1/2 inch seam allowance. Put right sides facing each other and a quick trip under the iron will have it looking like this.



Sew the top edges down. After doing this I think I over did it by sewing two lines. Totally not necessary.



The next part starts to get a little tricky. With my sewing machine I sewed the top edge to one side of the knitted garment opening. Once that was done I could properly gauge how wide the pocket was. I trimmed the fabric so it wouldn't bunch and then sewed up the sides.



I then hand sewed the other top edge to the opposite side of the knitted pocket. After that all there was left to do was tack down the knitted pocket lining to encompass the fabric lining. Voila!

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

I have been avoiding you. I'm sorry about that. It has been a very rough month and I just wanted to deny that it ever happened. Some of you know what I'm talking about and thank you for all your support.

So lets start on a Good note.



Better-Than-Booties Baby Socks are done. Now my Sister-in-law can officially have the baby and I'm hoping that these little knits moves things along for her.

Now for the Bad.

There has been an upsetting turn of events for my new Featherweight Cardigan. I knew this would happen and I didn't listen to myself. sigh. I had been wearing my new cardigan everyday and enjoying it tremendously. When I was done I would roll it up and stick it in my huge purse and la-de-da. Well, there must have been too much movement and shuffling in the purse and the best I can tell, my wallet must have tussled with it.



The purse won that fight hands down. I shake by head because it still hurts to even look at it.

Then I discovered the Ugly.



What you see there is a full tear on that pull. I know. It's hard to even fathom. I knit that sweater for 3 months and only got to wear it for three days and WHAM!

After talking with some very helpful and knowledgeable knitters, I can fix this. I just don't think I'm prepared mentally and emotionally just yet.

My only other option is to embrace the Steampunk fashion

Knitting Slump

No. I haven't fallen off the face of the earth, why do you ask. phsst. whatever.

I'm in a mood. Sassy and full of attitude. My real concern is my lack of the thrill to knit. Most days... correction. Everyday since I can remember, I've yearned to hold the needles and yarn. Lately, not so much.

I'm really just going through the motions by continuing on my blanket squares. It does give me a sense of accomplishment to knockout a few additions, but I need more out of my knitting.

What I need a new project. Checked my queue on Raverly for something to pop out but after going through each one on all 6 pages. blank. Oh Hell. Now what? So I head to my magazines. Old ones and new ones. Nada. On to the books.... still no thrill.

I'm of the mind set that because I knit for pleasure and not as a job then I need to enjoy it. Otherwise what's the point?

This weekend I will just so happen to be in Arizona for a wedding. Kinda excited to get away to warmer weather and around family that I don't often get to hang with. Their a hoot and I know this will be highly enjoyable.

So with quick trip in front of me I think I need to plan a new project. Something portable. Something fairly easy... not color work that needs to be ripped and then carefully placed back on the needles - ask me how I know. not fun.

Plus I want some WOW factor too. I'm going to be at a wedding and knitting blanket squares is so far from cool. So below are a few yarns in my stash that are more on the "Oh Look How Lovely"...


Southwest Trading Company-Oasis - DK weight - 720 yards

For this soy silk I was thinking perhaps of the Cedar Leaf Shawlette


Buffalo Earth - Sport weight - 200 yards

This perhaps as Meander Mitts... unfortunately I don't own the Vogue Knitting, Fall 2009 magazine... so perhaps an alt fingerless glove patter would be Fetching from Knitty.


Buffalo Luxury - Lace weight - 330 yards

I'm really smitten with this yarn, but I just can't possibly think of a lace project that isn't too difficult or can handle the small yardage. I'm certainly not doing Isbel again... not that I didn't like the finished object. I can't justify the constant swearing that will be spewing from my mouth... not good a weddings;)

Any suggestions for patterns... I'm at a loss.

FO: Am Kamin Hat

Pattern: Am Kamin Hat by Toshiyuki Shimada

Yarn: 2 skeins of Classic Elite Yarns Renaissance

Needles: US 7 circular needles

Started: January 12, 2010

Finished: January 28, 2010

The translation of this pattern from Japanese to English wasn't too difficult, but it wasn't until I opened the book and was scoping out the sweater did I see something odd.

Go click on the link above and see if you can spot it (you'll have to scroll down a bit...it's the sweater/hat set in red). If you need a hint, look at the cables in the photo compared to my finished version. Go, I'll wait.

Do you see it? Do you see the X-O cable? Yeah... the pattern directions didn't have that in the pattern. Go figure that this Japanese pattern book would have errata in it. I really should have been paying more attention, but I was more concerned with stitch count and decreases verses if the chart was accurate to the photo.

Either way I love the hat and would totally do it again.

Crazy Times

I'm really hoping that come February 1st our daily life will fall into a grove that is just smooth as silk because this whole January has been just one big load of crap.

I don't like to harp on the bad things and I truly like to focus on the positive. For instance my family is healthy and happy. Know one is trapped under rubble or starving for food (although my teenage son would probably beg to differ on that subject as he feels there should be more pop and chips in the house...but I digress).

It just feels like I don't have the right to vent the frustrations that have piled up in my life because they seem soooo insignificant. Yet, they are key factors in my stress level and that does matter.

What happened you say? and in keeping with a positive outlook I'll tell you.

1. Son gets to experience entering the workforce by creating (on his own time) a portfolio for a mock interview. Not only will this enlighten him for when he enters the workforce, but it will also give me great pride to spend money on a new suit.

2. Son also gets to participate in karate classes which I will gladly drive him to knowing that my precious evenings are all focused on his success.

3. Son learns a life lesson "better to have loved and lost then to have never loved at all"

4. Son gets to participate in the Science Fair Project and was happy to get advise from a wise woman on what experiment would work for him (thanks Aleta!)

5. My husband got the chance to experience his own science experiment with the family vehicle while it died on the I-80 expressway. Results of experiment have lead to believe that if you wait in your vehicle for a tow, you can physically feel the temperature drop within minutes.

6. Waking up at 4:30 in the morning to the sounds of a tow truck and hearing my husbands voice made me happy to have him home safe.

7. Grandpa was awful nice to lend us the truck for a short bit while repairs were made on our vehicle.

8. We were very lucky that the only thing wrong on the car was the alternator and battery.

9. Son got the chance to fully register for High School and meet his counselor. It only took 2 hours and a stop off for Culvar's was well liked.

10. Our Family attended the 8th grade parents meeting where we had the lovely chance of seeing the full community in their true colors. Great debates are just one of the highlights of the night, along with pointed fingers and hopes of raising money for that "All So Important Trip". Even though the meeting didn't get a chance to discuss what time the actual graduation was going to start, we did get out within the hour as was promised by the principle.

11. With Pace eliminating bus routes, I took the initiative and took names of the riders who would like the route continued. I really had no idea what I was going to do with the names once I collected them, but I knew I wasn't the only one affected by this change. I then wrote an email and sent it out to a dozen addresses I could find of people who I thought would make a difference. Within days there was a representative on the bus and now a meeting is scheduled at city hall to discuss alternatives. It feels kinda strange being an activist... but I like it.

I guess what it comes down to is that change might be hard, but in the end everyone is healthy, feed, warm and able to live another day. Hug the ones you have close to you and remember the ones who have past. Peace.

2009 Finished Objects

1. Eddie's Felted Clogs, 2. Marley Hat, 3. Funky Monkey, 4. Postwar Mittens, 5. Cable Lagoon Socks, 6. Ishbel Beret, 7. Ishbel Scarf, 8. Eric's Socks, 9. Baby Surprise Jacket, 10. Baby Snow Cap, 11. Mac's Pink-Purple Socks, 12. Starsky Jr, 13. Tapestry Cowl, 14. Celtic Icon, 15. Nubby Cardigan, 16. St. Brigid, 17. Selbu Modern Hat, 18. Generic Socks, 19. GumDrop Socks, 20. Itachi Hat, 21. Norwegian Star Hat, 22. Ornaments, 23. Willoughby Scarf, 24. Norwegian Star Hat 4me

I Now Want To Add Fleece To EVERYTHING

With the seriously low temps hitting the Chicagoland area, I'm thinking of fleecing every article of fabric in my home.

I found the perfect tutorial for lining hats with polar fleece. Check out TECHknitting's blog post that totally helps in the construction.

Unfortunately, in the tutorial it wants you to wear the fleece on your head to give a more perfect fit. With gift knitting, that's kinda hard. So, I used the my matchy-matchy to Mac's hat as a test.



I measured my head and then pinned the fleece. I then tried the fleece on my head to see if it would fit and it does. I then placed the knitting hat on top of the flat fleece and pinned around the outside of the hat to get the slop of my skull. Give your self plenty of wiggle room. You don't want to match it perfectly because it will need room to stretch. You can see I also included the earflaps on my tracing.



Then pick up some matching thread. I used a general all purpose thread and was happy to see it matched so well.



You then sew along the pinned area with the good side facing towards each other. I really don't have a clue what kind of sewing technique that is... mattress, whip... something that is strong. What I love about fleece is there are no worries about fraying.



You then take your knitting hat and turn it inside out and do the same with the polar fleece. You place the fleece on top of the hat and begin pin the two items together.



Once pinned in place you go along with your needle and thread to secure the fleece edges with the knitting edge of the hat. And really that's all there is to it. I've made three of these so far and I'm kinda hooked.

FO: Tapestry Cowl

Pattern: Tapestry Cowl by Pepperknit Patterns

Yarn: 2 skeins Malabrigo Yarn Sock (Terracotta and Cordovan)

Needles: US 5 circular

Started: May 20, 2009

Finished: Aug 14, 2009



Comments: I love patterns where I get to try out new techniques. Your basically knitting both inside and outside of the cowl simultaneously. It becomes tricky with handling the two yarns at the same time, so while I was learning double knitting I was also learning to knit continental. I highly recommend knitting with both hands in a project like this. It makes the project go by very quickly.



You'll notice that the double knitting technique gives you a mirror image of the pattern, so there is no correct side. In order to achieve this your cast-on method must be very invisible along with your bind-off.



The cast-on is fiddly, but not terribly hard. It was the bind-off that I still quiver from. Lets just take a moment to understand what I'm about to tell you. The pattern it's self calls for 110 stitches in each color. That means you have 220 stitches that you'll have to bind-off with KITCHENER. [faint]



I don't do cuff down socks just to avoid kitchener on the toe and that's only 10 stitches, maybe 16 at most. Hey... kitchener on 220 stitches Takes.For.Ever.



So, even with that being said, I would totally do it again. I would however change my needle size to perhaps a US3. The finished project is a bit slouchy and I think my gauge and tension relaxed a bit much.

Adding A Zipper To Your Knits

I want to first give everyone fair warning that you can take your hand knits to most dry clean/laundry facilities and they will install the zipper for you in exchange for a crisp Jackson. I on the other hand, I'm stubborn and like to torture myself with perfectionism.

Seriously? a zipper is a little bit of a pain in the arse. Would I do it again? Hecks Yeah! Again with the torture stuff...I know, so if your curious to see how I went about sewing a zipper on my cardigan, here are my notes and pictures:

There are a few steps you'll have to do first, like buy the zipper and of course for me that involved picking a custom color and custom size. I purchased a color card from ZipperStop back at the beginning of the year so I would be set for when the cardigan was done. They have a wide range of selection and with the color card handy I was able to pick something suitable for my St. Brigid.

The customer service is helpful and they ship same day if they get your order in early. Before you order, have your details all ready handy like color, length and slider style. FYI: the color card lists every color they COULD get, but the website lists what is in stock. You will be limited in certain colors, but it was nice to have the card to determine the right choice.



Getting started you lay the garment down with zipper zipped. Take pins and secure loosely in place where you'd like the zipper to start. Making sure to double and triple check that it's the same place on both sides. It might look like it's buckling a bit, but it's really just the pins making it look out of sorts.



Once pinned in place then thread a needle with a highly contrasting thread and bast along the edge. Do this slowly, making sure not to stretch the fabric or zipper which will cause a ripple.



With both sides basted, you can try the sweater on. Do that. This is the time you want to make adjustments. It's easier to pull that thread out then ripping out the sewn thread.



If your happy with how you've secured the zipper, now is time to take out the sewing machine. Don't worry about that basting thread. Your main concern is keeping a consistent and straight line on your fabric/zipper.



You'll want to pick a thread as close to the color of your knitted fabric as possible and the one I found was practically invisible. Go slowly with the sewing machine, but before you know it your done. The results are just awesome and I'm so excited to have added another lesson learned under my belt!

Go Figure...

I have been struggling with my inner persona that is constantly judging my performance. I was trying to fight it off saying things to myself like "know one will notice" and "don't make such a big deal about it" ...yet it would raise it's evil eye at me and say, but you can fix it.

When I would then come back with "I don't wanna!" and do you want to know why? Because the only way to fix a cable this twisted is to rip it all out. Not 6, 9 or even 12 stitches. We're talking the full cable. It's highly woven features make it nearly impossible to ladder down that far.

How far you say? Ten inches far, that's how. Yeah, it wasn't going to happen. It was a rip or for-get-about-it! So, I kept knitting and that perfectionist side was getting louder. Something had to be done, so Google here I come.

Here is the mess:



The bottom set is done right, where as the top are not. I think the Yarn Harlot had the best example from her 2006 post: All is not lost. I ended up doing a fake cable with embroidery.

Here is a look at how it was going when I was half way done.



In the end, I'm happy and that evil perfectionist is silent. I can certainly live with this fake fix.



If you were in this situation would you have gone through the trouble of fixing the calbes?

Warning: Not For The Faint of Heart!

Let me start by saying thanks for the comments and to answer some of your questions:

Jill asks:
"You know the trick of stitching over the incorrect twist?"

I have never tried this method but it looks very interesting. I guess if I was ever put into a situation where that was my only solution, then perhaps I would try.

Knitterary asks:
"Ouch. I'd be worried about laddering down that particular cable. And about laddering down that close to the cast-on. What are you going to do?"

Well, I figured the best option was to do just that ... and ladder I did:



Scary? I know. It's not an easy task taking this method on, but it is by no means impossible to do. Here is how I worked it out:

I pulled out each ladder until I was down to the wrong cable, switched the order and keep the stitches live on a dpn.



Each ladder represents a row and every fourth row was a cable row.



I use the ladder as if it was my active yarn, making sure to tug on the first stitch. This will keep the cable from being to wonky. I then keep the middle stitches loose which will in turn make the last stitch fairly tight. When everything is said and done blocking will help any unevenness.



After a several long hours my St. Brigid is back on the right track.



Sigh. Now everything is right with the world!

Knitting Math Part 2

* * * * * * * W A R N I N G * * * * * * *

SERIOUS KNITTING MATH AHEAD

The last time we talked about knitting math, I covered how to calculate proper yardage for a project. That information can be used to design a new pattern or change a current pattern into a different gauge.

The next step involves plotting the gauge to full scale. Converting an existing pattern will give you exact cast-on, decreases and bind-off stitches to match your new gauge.

(yarn shots thrown in to help you deal with the math overload)

The simplest part of this takes some measuring or pattern checking. For instance, if you have a sweater where the front is 20 inch wide by 22 inches long. Your gauge measures at 4 stitches to the inch and 3 rows to the inch, then the math would look like this:

20 x 4 = 80 stitches to cast-on

22 x 3 = 66 rows will result in proper height.

Most of the time when a pattern tells you to knit until piece measures so many inches, I don't convert that section. You'll just knit to that length whether it's for armholes or necklines.



The trickier part of pattern conversions comes when you have decreases over a defined area. For example on sleeve cap shaping. If the pattern reads decrease at edge 1 stitch every other row. This will have to be examined to your new gauge and as I had to do this just recently I will give you the sample I worked on...

Original pattern calls for this cap sleeve shaping:
BO 5 st at the begin of next 2 rows (50 st remain)
DEC 1 st at each end of every needle every other row 4 times,
Then every row 14 times
BO 14 remaining st

The Shaping of Cap on Sleeves:
Pattern schematic has the width at 17 inch at the point where the shaping begins. Shaping of cap will happen over 7.5 inches ending with a width of 4 inches to bind-off. From the above description of the original shaping we see that the first BO action is dramatic. This quick BO will create a notch on both sides which should match the bind-off for the armholes.

We then have more decreases, but at a slower pace. A total of 8 stitches decreased every other row. You'll need to look for the row gauge of the original, which is 13 rows = 3 inch (or 3.25 rows per inch). Decreasing happens over 8 rows (every other row [2] x 4 dec)... then we calculate over the row gauge (8 rows ÷ 3.25 per inch = 2.46 in). This tells us that the slower pace decrease happen over a 2.46 inch span.

We'll then match this with our row gauge... 13 rows = 3.75 in (or 3.5 rows per inch) – please note I round up when I need to. We take this number (3.5) and find how many rows we'll need to do the slower decreases.

3.5 rows per inch x 2.46 inch = 8.61 rows

This shows not much of a change or difference between the original row gauge and new row gauge. Yet my stitch count is greater and I have to decrease significantly over a shorter distance.

The remaining 5 inches would have to accommodate a larger decrease amount compared to the original gauge. Instead I take a look at an overall decrease of the full sleeve. If I calculate so see how many times per row I would need to decrease my stitch count from 70 stitches to 20 over the full cap... 50 stitches ÷ 2 (for each edge of cap) = 25. Then divide that times our row gauge: 25 ÷ 3.5 = 7.14 inches. That puts us closer to the length of cap shaping we need verses planning out each row of decrease.

To make up for the .35 remaining I'll do a non-decrease row in the beginning which will give us plenty of length on the cap.



My pattern conversion:
BO 6 st at the begin of next 2 rows (70 st remain)
K 2 row in pattern. Ending on WS row.
DEC 1 st at each end of every needle until 20 stitches remain
BO 20 remaining st



Pattern converting can become a challenge. If you break it down section by section and have your calculator, pencil and paper handy it can work out just fine. Always take notes and jot numbers down. It's a process and if you need a break, take one.

Just knowing that it is possible to end up with a garment worth knitting is huge to me. I'm sure most people would say it's just not worth it. That is totally fine too. I would rather know that it's possible then to feel like there is nothing I can do about it.

Knitting Math

* * * * * * W A R N I N G * * * * * *

SERIOUS KNITTING MATH AHEAD

TURN BACK NOW

[mic: tap. tap.] Are you still with me? Okay then, you asked for it.

I've always been good at math and geometry. I get the concepts, shapes and love that everything fits perfect. Where as the English language has always stumped me. I remember having an intense discussion in the 3rd grade with my teacher about the word knife, but I digress.

So it all started a long long time ago with a project that screamed KNIT ME! The New Pea Coat from Interweave Magazine Fall 08. The pattern calls for two yarns to be knit with each other in this woven stitch pattern. Fabulous for the fall. After looking at some yarn choices I decided that a bulky weight yarn could substitute for the pattern.



Yarn: Debbie Bliss Donegal Tweed Chuncky

I swatched on 10.5's, 11's and 13's... and I suppose if I was actually doing the woven stitch pattern correctly I would have gotten a more accurate stitch count. Either way my gauge was off and not by one stitch. It was off by a lot.

Still my vision of doing the coat was not diminished. Having the coat knit up with this yarn presented some issues. First off is having enough yarn to complete the project and second figuring out new measurements for all the components.

For the time being we'll stick with the first task of yardage.

What you'll need to start with is producing a gauge swatch. You might need to do several and you'll always want to wash/block your swatch. Chose the swatch you most desire your finished texture to resemble. That is if you prefer a dense fabric or something more lofty then this is where you'll make those decisions.

With your swatch done you'll need to measure the width and height. Say for this demo we've produced a 4 x 4 inch square swatch. Take note of the stitch count and row count of the swatch. Measure several random areas to get an average.

What you've just done is produced a 8 square inch area of your future project. If your swatch was 3.5 x 3.5 then you get a 7 square inch area. Nothing more then multiplying the two together, kinda like finding the square foot of a room.

I then take a clasp stitch markers and place one at the beginning of the cast-on row through the tail by splitting the yarn. This marks the beginning of the work. I then place another one at the end of the bind-off row splitting the tail again. These markers now represent the length and yardage of yarn used to produce a 4 x 4 inch square.

Are you with me so far? Need a break... here:



Having marked the swatch from end to end you'll then need to unravel the swatch. With your swatch all undone you'll then measure the length between both markers. There are 36 inches in a yard. I started with a tape measure on the floor and measured out 36 inches sections wrapping the yarn back and forth until you've come the end stitch marker. Count the number of lengths the yarn traveled and you'll have the number of yards used to knit your swatch. If you end up an uneven amount... don't worry. You can always round up or just count it as a fraction (.25, .5, .75). For this demo we'll say we ended up with 10 yards.

The next part deals with finding the full square inch area of the project at hand. It will be helpful if there is a diagram labeling the dimensions of the piece. For this demo we'll say it's a sweater. This sweaters finished measurements are labeled (backs and fronts are separate) at 20 inches for the width and 22 inches for the length. Sleeves are labeled at 12 inch at wrist with a length at 19 inches.

You might start to wonder about increase or decreases interfering with your measurements. There is about a 10 percent margin that you need to take into consideration when making your final yardage decision. If your project has a lot of shaping and your concerned... take the widest measurement as your base and you wont have to worry about being off.

With the numbers above you'll need to multiply the widths times the lengths. Like this:

Back: 20 x 22 = 440
Front: 20 x 22 = 440
Right Sleeve: 12 x 19 = 228
Left Sleeve: 12 x 19 = 228

Added all up: 1,336

You will then take this number and divide it by the square inch area from your swatch and you have this:

1,336 ÷ 8 = 167

You then multiply this times the number of yards found in your swatch and you have this:

167 x 10 = 1,670 yards

This is the total yardage needed to complete the project at the gauge you've chosen and if your skein is labeled at 110 yards per ball then you'll need 16 skeins for the project.

Not only does this knitting math help in re-gauging an existing pattern, but helps a lot for design knitting. The down side is this is just the beginning of converting a pattern to a different gauge. Part two entails changing the numbers in the pattern to fit the changed stitch count. For example the cast-on, decreases and bind-off will all have to be adjusted. sigh. I hope I haven't scared you off but perhaps enlightened you.

If this has at all helped or you'd like more on this topic please leave a comment and I'll see what I can do.